The next step you need to take when installing your industrial gutters and guttering systems in Johannesburg South Africa is to fix the or build the gutter outlets and gutter ends. Start to install your gutter outlets by cutting a hole for the outlet. You do this by marking the position of the downpipe on the gutter and by cutting an opening for the outlet. Use a hacksaw to make this cut and make sure that you cut an opening in the bottom of the gutter at an incline from both directions of the gutter. You must use a hammer to shape the hole if it needs to be shaped. Also make sure that you remove any burr. Position the gutter outlet at the hole in the gutter. Put the front of the outlet inside the front of the gutter. Turn the outlet into place against the bottom of the gutter. Bend the rear flanges of the outlet around the back of the gutter. Next you need to install the gutter ends for your industrial gutters and guttering system. Place the gutter end against the end of the gutter and press the gutter end in place. Ensure that the gutter end is locked to the step in the gutter by tapping it with a rubber mallet or similar tool at both edges as well as in the middle. The flange on the side of the gutter facing the wall can also be bent by hand to bring it into line with the gutter. Now you need to put together or fit together all the parts of your gutter run or industrial guttering system. The best way to do this is to assemble all parts of your industrial gutters system before you install or fit your gutter to the roof of your office or respective building. The parts that you assemble together must include the gutter end, gutter outlet as well as the corners. Fix the gutter to the brackets by first pressing the back edge of the gutter strongly against the bracket. Then press the front edge of the gutter into the bracket. Position or fit the gutter into the brackets as close to the final localities as possible. Do not move the gutter lengthwise after installing . . .
Most if not all quality industrial gutters and guttering systems are designed to be fully functional and effective in all types of climates including severe weather conditions. These industrial gutters and guttering systems are all able to withstand and endure many years of fluctuating conditions, from summer heat and rains to the ice cold winter weather. Colour coated gutters provide the additional advantage of giving the surface of the industrial gutters a very strong durability that always protects the guttering system from corrosion and also ensures that the colour will not fade due to the sun’s ultra violet radiation. Do it yourself handymen or handywomen or anybody wanting to install their own gutter system must order their system correctly. This is achieved by providing the correct details and specifications to your gutter provider when placing the order for your industrial gutters. The following details should be specified in the order you give to your gutter supplier. The dimensions and shape of the roof to which you want to attach the guttering system. You can attach the approved construction drawings of the roof to your order or you can make a sketch of the roof yourself, including the details of the wall height from the ground to the bottom of the cornice. Once you receive delivery of your industrial guttering system you must make sure all the components and pieces that make up the construction of your gutters are included in the delivery and that your initial detailed order placed meets the delivery. Mistakes or errors in delivery and any damage caused during transportation must be noted and reported to the delivery company immediately as well as the company where you bought the gutters from. When extracting the gutters from their respective packaging gutter installers must make sure that they don’t scratch the painted surfaces of the gutters and all the components contained in the guttering system. The best way to remove all the pieces of your . . .
Once you have started your roof painting job on your new roof, old roof, flat roof, metal roof, tile roof, corrugated iron roof, warehouse roof or tin roof in Johannesburg South Africa, you need to let that paint dry for as long as is necessary. The time it takes your rooftop to dry is obviously totally dependent on the material of the surface of the roof that you have just painted, the temperature of the air surrounding or on top of the roof, the level of the humidity in the air, the amount and strength of wind blowing onto the roof and how exposed the roof is to the sun and also how hot the sun is. Under ideal drying conditions your roof should form a dew and drizzle resistant film about four to six hours after you have painted the surface of the roof. As part of your roof painting assignment make sure that you allow at least eight to twelve hours for your first coat of paint to dry, in normal drying conditions, before you apply your second coat of paint. Drying times will vary depending on temperature, humidity and the location of your roof to the direct heat of the sun. If the drying conditions are not normal and the heat of the air is measured to be around fifty degrees Fahrenheit, which is quite cold, then you will need to let the first coat of paint on your roof dry for much longer than twelve hours. Roof painting contractors and roof painters need to be aware of the fact that if their first coat of paint is painted onto the roof too thick then the relative humidity will be higher than ninety percent. This is applicable only if the air is calm, or the surface of the roof is not exposed to direct sunlight. Roof paining contractors and roof painters must make sure that any drips, splatters, overspray or spills on shrubbery, walkway's, drive-ways or sides of mobile homes are cleaned up straight away. If paint is spilled or splashed onto the roof surface while applying the first or second coats of paint, these splashes or spills must be removed immediately . . .
The first task any household gutters installer needs to do before installing the gutters into their home, house, household or residence in Johannesburg South Africa, is to draw a sketch of their existing guttering system and then measure the dimensions of that same gutter run. So you need to measure and record the length of your entire household gutters system and at the same time mark the places you will be erecting downspouts. After that you need to count up the inside and outside corners and end caps. While counting you need to observe and make a note of the fact as to whether the corners are right or left ends. Then measure the height of all the downspouts and add four feet or one point two metres to each cater for the extension away from the house at the bottom. Each downspout needs three elbows. There are two types of elbows that turn either to the front or side of the downspout. Most installations need only front elbows, but sometimes you may also need a side elbow. The side elbow is usually needed to turn the downspout extension sideways. When planning your whole household gutters system you need to make sure that you place or erect all your downspouts in areas that are not obstructed by anything. These areas need to also be places where the downspouts can funnel the rainwater away from your house or home. Try to avoid areas that have obstacles near them such as electric meters, hose bibs or sidewalks. Build your downspouts in quiet ordinary places if possible. You need to install oversized three by four inch downspouts on the gutters that will drain the water away from large roof areas. This size of downspout is necessary if you live in an area that receives regular violent thundershowers. Slope long gutter runs, forty foot or twelve metres or more, down both directions from the middle and erect a downspout on each end. Buy special roof hanger mounting straps for houses or residences that are without decorative fascia boards or for decorative fascias . . .
Continuing on with the installation of your own industrial gutters and guttering system, your existing rainwater gutter run needs to be inspected on a regular basis to ensure that the rain water will be managed correctly and to identify areas that are in need of maintenance or repair. The constant removal of f leaves, needles, grass, bird droppings etcetera needs to be performed frequently. When cleaning your industrial gutters make sure that you do not scratch the gutter’s surface paint when you clean your gutter run. Soiled or blemished gutter parts should be washed with a soft brush and water. Pressure washing, up to a pressure of fifty bar, can also be used. If required, a commercial detergent that has been specifically manufactured to paint the coatings on gutters can be used. The detergent needs to be applied, after which it must be rinsed off after a few minutes with lots of water. The next task to carry out, while installing industrial gutters and guttering systems, is to install the brackets. The first job here is to adjust the angle of the brackets by placing the adjustable bracket against the decorative fascia. Adjust the angle of the bracket so that it is almost level making sure that the front of the bracket is slightly lower than the back. Attach the bracket to its fastening piece with short installation screws. Use only two screws per bracket. If you find that there are no fastening holes that match the required angle then you need to use the closest pair of holes available. Attach each bracket to its fastening piece at its respective pair of holes. The installer must begin the installation of the brackets at the end of the eaves from where you want the slope to start towards the downpipe. The first and the last bracket must be installed at about one hundred and fifty millimetres from the eave ends. Fasten the first adjustable bracket to the decorative fascia board so that the height difference between the, soon to be, level of the roof and the . . .
Before any roof painting project starts, the roof, which could be any kind of roof, namely a new roof, old roof, flat roof, metal roof, tile roof, corrugated iron roof, warehouse roof or tin roof, needs to be cleaned first and then primed before it is painted. Galvanized and aluminium metal requires special primers. Rusty metal roof surfaces need to be primed with a white latex metal primer or a rust reforming rust conversion liquid. There are specific ways in which a roof needs to be painted by you or a team of roof painters or painting contractors. As soon as the roof has been cleaned and primed the first coat of paint needs to be applied. In most instances this first coat of roof paint needs to be applied onto the surface of the roof at temperatures above fifty degrees Fahrenheit or ten degrees Centigrade. The paint must be properly stirred before painting the roof with it. The first coat of paint can be applied to dry or slightly damp surfaces, using a hand painting brush, roller or air pressure spray. The paint must be painted on in generous amounts making sure that all pores and cracks are painted over and into. This coat of paint must be applied as smoothly as is practically possible. A minimum of two coats of paint is recommended. Two thin coats are always preferable to one thick coat of paint. Each coat should be applied perpendicular to the preceding coat of paint as this will create the desired effect of a checkerboard pattern. This method guarantees no thinly painted areas and ensures a more uniform finish. Some paints do not require thinners to be added to them as they are at the correct consistency to paint onto the roof immediately. The painting contractors will know that if they apply thinners to a paint that requires no thinners it will reduce the percentage of solids, which will adversely affect the durability of the applied coat of paint. On a rough porous surface, such as concrete tile, four and a half litres of paint will usually cover an . . .
It is not always necessary to purchase and install completely new domestic household gutters in homes, houses and residences in residential areas. Professionally qualified and experienced installers or do it yourself household gutter installers can create stronger, better looking gutters by modifying their existing gutter systems. This is easily achieved by minimize joints, assembling strong sleek looking seams and by adding roof flashing to keep the water flowing into the gutters. The tools that you will need to modify your own existing domestic gutters, which have already been installed at the edge of your roof in your house or home, are as follows. A cordless drill, crimper, extension ladder, duckbill tin snips, hex head driver, offset tin snips, pop rivet gun, tape measure, a hack saw and chalk. Materials that you will need include a one and a quarter inch deck screws, gutter hangers, gutter parts such as corners, downspouts, long runs, gutters, downspouts, elbows, gutter flashing, gutter sealant, gutter hanging strap, one eighth of an inch rivets, one and one quarter of an inch self-tapping hex head screws and some quarter of an inch hex head screws or zippers. Many hardware stores in Johannesburg South Africa stock and sell domestic household gutter systems that are designed specifically for the handyman or handywoman to install quickly and easily. However, if you want to install your own complete guttering system you can use the parts purchased at a hardware store to build gutters and downspouts that are strong and attractive. Once you have purchased all the tools and guttering equipment and materials you are now ready to evaluate and plan the domestic household guttering project for your home, house or residence. Installing your own household gutters can and should save you a lot of money compared to the expense involved when hiring a professional qualified and experienced household gutters team to install the gutters for you. Nevertheless, there are a . . .
Prior to roof painting a new roof, old roof, flat roof, metal roof, tile roof, corrugated iron roof, warehouse roof or tin roof, there are certain roof surface preparation tasks that need to be completed before the actual painting of the roof is started. The first of these tasks is to inspect the flashings. All the flashings should fit tightly to the roof. Make sure that they have all been secured firmly with screws or taped down. Any flashings or mouldings that are found to be damaged or rusty must be removed, repaired and or replaced. The stacks and vents are the next item to inspect during the surface preparation phase of the roof painting project. The purpose of stacks and vents are to remove excess moisture and fumes from the home or warehouse. Faulty or poor performing stacks or vents will cause moisture to build up between the ceiling and the roof resulting in unwanted condensation. These stacks and vents should be repaired or replaced or additional stacks and vents added to the roof, if necessary. Seams, cracks and stress areas are the next aspects that the roof painters need to inspect. The same roof repair procedure applies to seams, cracks and stress areas that are identified. Remove all dried out caulk or coating. When inspecting the seams the roof painting contractors can tighten the screws if required. Seams, cracks and stress areas that are found or measured to be a quarter of an inch wide have to be repaired. The material used to repair these seams, cracks and stress areas is polyester woven reinforcement. When performing this repair the painting contractors must always put a membrane over the whole seam and not only over the portion that looks faulty. Accumulated water is always a problem on roofs and this aspect needs to be eliminated during the surface preparation phase of the roof painting project. Any area of a roof where water may accumulate or dam up must be repaired by installing drains, polyurethane foam build-up or the application of . . .
The two remaining tasks to complete when installing domestic or household gutters in homes, houses and residences in residential areas in Johannesburg South Africa are to fit or fix the gutter sections and then to install the drain pipes or downspouts. The gutter sections need to be fixed or installed from the ground upwards. Most installers, who have been installing household gutters for a long time, find this step to be the easiest step of all during the installation process. These gutter sections are fixed into place using special connectors. These special connectors will ensure that the gutter sections match or line up and snap into the gutter sections. Once this is done the household gutters will need to be fitted or placed into the gutter hangers. In order to make the hanging of the gutters easier, prior to hanging the gutters the installer needs to ask someone to help him or her by supporting or holding the gutters while the installer is busy hanging them. The final task left for the installer during the house gutters installation job is to install the drain pipes in or to the guttering system. The drain pipes, in guttering terminology, are referred to as the downspouts. The first task to install the downspouts is to cut a piece of drainpipe to fit between the downspout elbow joint on the outlet and to the one on the wall of the home, house or residence that you are attaching the gutters to. Place the elbows on the pipe and then snap it onto the outlet. Next the installer needs to make sure that they secure the other elbow onto the wall. To make sure this is done correctly drainpipe hanger must be used. Once the elbow is securely fitted to the wall then another piece of drainpipe needs to be cut and then fitted between the wall elbow and the ‘hang down’. This needs to be fitted at a distance of about one foot above the ground. The drain pipe can then be snapped into the wall. The installer then needs to attach another new elbow joint down near the . . .
The fifth step when installing industrial gutters and related guttering systems in offices and or industrial buildings in Johannesburg South Africa is to install the inside straps. This is accomplished by threading the straps through the two rectangular holes that are found in the liners outside. Once these straps are finally in their correct positions the industrial guttering system installer needs to be make absolutely sure that they sit snugly and tightly against or with the decorative fascia’s lip. The installer must be confident and check repeatedly that this is a secure fitting because this is the way in which the decorative fascias are locked into position. After the inside strap has been placed in its correct position what the installer then needs to do is to rivet that strap to the liner. This riveting of the inside strap is accomplished with one eighth of an inch by three eighths of an inch aluminium rivets. Under no circumstances should the installer nail the inside strap into position. During the task of installing or positioning the straps in the correct positions the installer needs to constantly check the alignment of the decorative fascia. The joints need to be specifically checked here as this where the alignment can easily and usually starts going wrong. Fascias with curved bends are susceptible to going skew or in guttering terms ‘spreading’, when they are being transported. This ‘spreading’ characteristic is why the installer needs to constantly check the alignment and then push or bend the curves straight and into alignment if they are found to be skew. As the installer is fitting the decorative fascia sections he or she will need to cut out the bottom flange area to house the downspouts at the outlet location. The decorative fascia sections need to be cut in such a way as to ensure that the downspout will extend up and to the bottom of the liner and not rest against the decorative fascia. There will be times that the industrial gutters . . .