The outbreak of the coronavirus has impacted all levels of society and the economy on a worldwide scale. Very few industries have not been affected by the scourge. While the impact on fields including travel, entertainment and technology are widely known, lifestyle industries – including fashion – have been affected as well.
The virus is increasingly having a negative impact on the fashion industry specifically, having escalated in the midst of the fall 2020 fashion month season, causing brands and design houses to shutter their doors and postpone upcoming runway shows.
Major events, including the Met Gala in New York, have also been postponed indefinitely. Department stores across the globe, including Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Selfridges and Saks Fifth Avenue, have closed their doors.
As cases of the virus began to appear in Italy last month, Giorgio Armani cancelled its Milan Fashion Week show. Prada cancelled its May 21 cruise presentation, which was meant to take place in Japan. Gucci’s San Francisco cruise show, which had been planned for May 18, was also cancelled, as was Versace’s May 16 cruise event. Max Mara announced on March 10 that it would cancel its upcoming cruise show, scheduled for May 25 in St. Petersburg.
Numerous global brands, including Nike and Uniqlo closed store operations across China following the coronavirus outbreak. This has already made an impact on sales. Ralph Lauren reported a decrease in sales by an estimate of 55 to 70 million dollars. Capri Holdings, which owns Versace, Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo, experienced a revenue loss of 100 million dollars.
The same dire developments are taking place on the local fashion front with retailer, Edcon, which owns amongst others, Edgars and Jet, expressing concern that it might not be operational after the lockdown period.
And what about designers? Locally and internationally acclaimed fashion designer, Hendrik Vermeulen, has opted to adapt to changing times and his business model now includes virtual designs.
‘We believe that we have to constantly rethink the way we do business in light of the digital world that is constantly changing. Although we still follow traditional couture methods in our production, hence our high price tag, we are constantly rethinking the business aspect of our company,’ Vermeulen explains.
Vermeulen’s couture designs have graced the fashion runways of amongst others; Milan Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week. He says while virtual or online design is not a new concept to his business, he has had to refine the optics to stay relevant.
‘We are used to provide online consultations for a few years now, since one of our wedding dresses called ‘Charme de Paris’ went viral on social media worldwide. We were contacted by customers from America, Australia, Canada and Europe, who could simply not come to South Africa for a consultation or fittings. We rapidly had to adapt to the new challenge and have developed an easy and comfortable way to perform online consultations. This has helped us to cope with the current lockdown situation and we are able to assist clients online,’ he says.
Vermeulen says the consultation usually starts with the exchange of a few emails to prepare for the initial online consultation. During the first online meeting additional information is gathered and professional advice given to clients in terms of design and material. Vermeulen says depending on the timeframe, fabric samples are also couriered to the client for approval. He says they also rely on a Pantone colour chart and specific codes.
‘We then submit a measurement sheet with an instruction video for self-measurement taking, as well as instructions for the client to take 3 photos in a specific way. A client can do this themselves or with the help of a friend. Thereafter we build a fitting mannequin specific to the client. Virtual fittings are conducted on the mannequin during a video call with the client, to discuss possible changes or concerns. The final dress is then shipped to the client and delivered to their door.’
Vermeulen says certain allowances are left within the dress for possible alterations. Vermeulen says their tried and tested online consultations have proved very successful, even in very difficult circumstances.
‘We have many testimonials from happy customers who were flabbergasted at the accuracy of the process and with the high quality of the delivered pieces. One of our client was a mother from Essex in the UK who ordered a Charme de Paris for daughter who was getting married. She was very worried as the future bride was a bust size 46G. The mom, being a seasoned seamstress, asked us to leave enough allowance to accommodate for a lot of alterations. The dress was delivered two months before the wedding and the mother and daughter were very surprised when the zipper went up and NO alterations were needed.’
Vermeluen says amid the coronavirus they have managed to keep their virtual design doors open and are working with clients all over the world and locally to ensure their garments are ready once the virus subsided.
For more information contact info@hendrikvermeulen.com or 083 236 8106 (WhatsApp only).
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